I also join in the process of writing a review, reading what other friends have written.

I should emphasize that I am very picky with everything I buy and always pay attention to the smallest detail. It would be good to keep this in mind while reading the rest.
First of all, I have to say that it is not possible to get a machine with which you could open a furniture shop with 300-400 euros. If that were true, professionals who spend 5000+ euros on a ribbon would probably be doing something wrong. The truth is that with the various reviews and videos I had seen about this product, I thought it was perfect. Of course, when I got it in my hands, I landed in reality.

First of all, I bought it for 285 + 40 euros for shipping and I believe that this should be its price and not the 400 euros they were asking for a long time.

Now, as for the technical aspects:
I consider the machine to be decent (definitely not perfect) and for this price, it is the best choice. Cheaper Chinese ribbons, etc. are useless without any adjustment capability and with an aluminum table and a cutting guide that cannot stay stable.

Now, moving on...
I'll start with the adjustment of the wheels: No matter how much I experimented with tightening more or less and with the tilt of the upper wheel, the ribbon at one point, as it turns to the right, moves 1mm backwards and then returns. However, during the tests I did, it doesn't seem to affect the cutting.

Vertical bearing guide:
There, I consider it to be the biggest problem. Although it is of good quality, the whole system of the rail is supported by 2 plastic guides. This results in the whole system being slightly inclined, so when you adjust the bearings to the low position, they do not hold their adjustments when you lift the guide all the way up. In the end, I solved the whole system and did the following: I wrapped the guides with a little tape so that there is no play in the rail. Now the whole system is very stable. As for the tilt (in my case, it was slightly to the right), I placed a 1mm thick wheel between the screw and the upper guide, so that it pushes it outwards and thus brings it as close to straight as possible. It's not perfect, but the problem was fixed by 95%. If, for example, the side bearings in position 0 are perfectly adjusted with the Snodgrass method (see video below), in position 10, there is a slight suspicion of "licking" on the right.

Now, from there onwards, and based on the tests I did, adjust the bearings to 3 points. Below that, it will be useless because it will never go lower. And if you cut 16mm melamine, the guide should be at 3 points in height so that you can see what you are doing.
Cutting quality: In the tests I did with melamine without adjusting the cutting guide (fence), the tool loses 0.2mm at 30 points. That is, when I cut a thickness of 1cm (30cm length melamine), one edge measured with a caliper showed 10.16 and the other 10.35. I believe it can be much better if you take the time to adjust the guide.

Finally, to help anyone who struggles with the adjustment of the machine:
1) After loosening all the bearings, lift the vertical guide all the way up and remove the table, start with the adjustment of the ribbon.
2) Adjust the lower bearings first (start with the back one and measure the sides).
3) We adjust the upper bearings in the same order as the lower ones at the height of the guide, 3 points.

This is the best video and it will help you a lot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxVyKsbuwZQ

As for the cuts, this is the whole essence, the ribbon seems to respond adequately whether it is a free cut or not. Even in free cuts, I had no problem following the line and achieving very good results. With the proper adjustment of the bearings, the ribbon does not "drift" at all. Beyond that, the rest is a matter of practice and technique.

In closing, let me say the following. Do not think that if you spend a thousand euros on a more expensive machine, you will not encounter such problems. In all machines, more or less, you need to get your hands dirty and come up with some tricks. And this is because they are either machines aimed at hobbyists (like this one) or they are construction site machines that do not require precision, but speed and power. They are not, in other words, furniture maker's machines. You will only find perfection in professional workshop machines.

Positives:
Good construction quality, except for the vertical guide system.
Very stable parallel cutting guide.
Solid cast iron table that adjusts correctly.
Cuts are very good if adjusted properly.

Negatives:
Difficult and time-consuming to adjust.
Needs some "handiwork"

The previous user wrote a very accurate and good review. However, the tool is completely unadjustable. While the build quality is very good, there are elements that make it a bad choice. The user manual is mediocre to bad, it doesn't help or only helps a little. The pulleys are very loose in their support. I took out the ribbon and observed them. Especially the top one, which has two settings (up - down for ribbon tension and in - out for aligning the ribbon on the pulley shaft) the design and construction of its support is UNACCEPTABLE, not for a precision tool but for...
All the settings are non-graduated, no scale or anything, how is it called precision? Because it makes curved cuts? And a simple cheap saw in good hands performs just fine. And even this tool requires skilled hands to adjust it properly!!
The technology of this tool is not something complex or sophisticated (a motor, an ON-OFF switch, two start-stop buttons, a relay, and a light) its entire value is in the mechanical design and construction, which is outdated, no innovation. In other words, "a lot of substance and few noodles" In an era where products evolve quickly, the build quality of an ancient machine is not enough... Money wasted...

First time I am writing a review and I am doing it because I believe that the bandsaw is the best in its category. If you are considering another model that does not have a cast iron table and especially guides/bearings above and below, it will not be adjustable and will never cut properly.
First of all, we are talking about a precision bandsaw (the model is called precision) and it doesn't make sense to use this machine for large beams (although the cutting height is about 10 inches, I think 10.3 cm). If you want to constantly cut such large pieces of wood, get a larger bandsaw, this model is for modelers, instrument makers, etc. (the motor will burn out if used at full power).
The bandsaw comes assembled out of the box, NOT adjusted, and if it is not properly adjusted, it will not cut straight. There are many good videos on YouTube that show the process (search for one with Alex Snodgrass, who is considered a guru).
Furthermore, two points that I found need improvement are the "plug" of the hole and the cutting guide. The plastic plug provided by the manufacturer is lower than the table and a small object cannot be cut smoothly because it creates a "notch". I made one out of wood and solved this issue (the surface does not need to be perfectly vertical, it just needs to be the correct height. The surface has a depth of about 3 mm, we cut it slightly larger and use fine sandpaper wrapped around a block to bring it flush with the table). Also, the guide has a protrusion (like a bullet head) that hinders the wood from following the guide. I smoothed it with a dremel, it is quite soft metal there (probably aluminum).
April 25, 2023
I would like to add something that the friend below may have encountered, who could not adjust the guides. The height arm (which raises and lowers the upper guide of the bandsaw) loses a little. That is, from the completely low position for small pieces of wood to the high position for larger pieces, it loses a little (we are talking about fractions of a millimeter), resulting in not cutting straight. I dealt with this by readjusting the guides/bearings when needed and managed to cut with satisfactory precision. If you want to frequently cut boards into thinner slices (resawing), it would be good to replace the bandsaw blade with the wider one from Metabo. The thin blade provided is for circular cuts (what carpenters call turning) and cutting with a pattern, like working with a coping saw.
In short, it will satisfy the average user 100% and the most demanding one with a couple of modifications (or attachments-jigs that they will need to make). For this price, there is nothing better in the Greek market.
Sorry for the long text, I hope I helped.

I bought it hoping that it would be somewhat better quality than the products of the market, but I was disappointed! Its major weakness is the bearing mechanism that supports the bandsaw, with two side bearings and one rear holding bearing, which is impossible to adjust correctly due to its poor construction quality.
Furthermore, the adjustment screws of the bearing position, of the Allen type, are flimsy and after two or three attempts of tightening and loosening to adjust the bearing correctly, they give up. As a result, I am left with a misaligned bearing.
Other observations include the poor quality of the fence, completely useless, as well as the vibrations in the frame caused by the motor's operation, which are quite intense.
For the above reasons, I do not recommend it for purchase at this price, as you can find a similarly quality bandsaw of Chinese brand for a hundred euros less.

Having little experience with ribbons, I consider myself perhaps not suitable to perceive many details regarding its capabilities and options, but what I can say is that I was amazed by its stability, accuracy, and incredible build quality. Having had a Chinese ribbon in the past worth around 160 euros, the difference in their use is chaotic.

Amazing tool that solves your hands because it makes difficult things easy... silent to the point that it surprised me, the cuts with a good setup are perfect and spotless.
What bothered me is that it costs 450€ in Greece while if you order it from Germany it is 310€ including shipping.